Groom your dog; make sure s/he is neatly brushed and his/her toenails are trimmed.
Make sure your gloves are acceptable: reasonably clean and of proper texture (don't starch).
Make sure your article bag/container doesn't have other junk in it (left over from training).
Before you walk in the ring
Check your pockets; remove toys or food well away from the ring entrance.
Check that you have 3 gloves and 5 metal and 5 leather articles (standard article sets come with 6 metal and 6 leather ones; remove the 6th one;
NOT always number six, just one of each).
Check that the jumps are properly set; ask the judge to measure them if they look wrong.
General
Don't allow your dog to get totally stressed out while showing.
Don't allow your dog to wander around, lost and panicky (or naughty). Call him/her to you (squat down).
Never make a judge wonder if your handling is legal--unless you have a very important reason to do otherwise, use commonly accepted handling practices.
Utility is hard. Help your dog stay mentally tuned in by being mentally prepared.
Consider teaching your dog a cue for each exercise. At the minimum, you will want a subtle, verbal cue for directed jumping.
Signal Exercise
Make sure all signals are visible to your dog; including the "heel" signal.
For the stand, move into the halt in the same manner as you would for a normal halt, giving the signal at the same time.
Give some thought to your clothing and the background; consider wearing something you can switch (dark jacket & light top, for example).
When the judge says "leave your dog", go to the other end of the ring in the same manner as the novice recall (leaving room for your dog to finish).
Never give a signal if the dog isn't looking; what's the point?
Quicker signals generally lead to a quicker response; if any. Slow, deliberate signals are best with beginning dogs. Try The Ann Arbor DTC's trick of imaging pushing sand with your hand.
If your dog NQ's, most judges will let you to give one, quiet verbal command and allow you to finish the exercise.
If your dog NQ's and is "mentally lost", squat down, call him/her in and praise; your goal at this point is to prevent mental stress in the ring.
Each signal is a single motion of the hand/arm, and the hand/arm must return to a natural position after each one.
Your hands must be at your sides for the recall portion of this exercise.
Articles
You may choose which article to do first, metal or leather. Give this some thought before going in the ring. It may or may not matter, depending on your dog; but decide ahead of time.
You may choose whether to turn, sit and send your dog or do a flying send (turn and send in one command).
You should decide on one or the other and only train that way. Both articles must
be performed using the same method.
The advantage of the turn, sit and send is that your dog is facing
the pile before actually being sent. This is especially helpful if
the articles are not in the "usual" place (between the jumps).
The advantage of the flying send is that it eliminates one sit and the
judge will deduct if that sit is crooked. Another advantage is that
many dogs think the flying send is fun. However, the dogs tend to fly
wider and wider around the handler over time; which the judge will
score when it becomes too wide.
The judge may have already selected the two articles (and have them on the chair) or you may be asked to pick them out of your bag/container.
Most judges will allow you to start scenting one article while the steward is putting out the articles; but ask nicely to be sure. This isn't particularly important, since it isn't part of a normal training routine.
Make sure your dog sees the steward putting out the articles. Give a (quiet) "mark", if s/he isn't watching.
Don't put the article you are scenting near your dog's nose while scenting it.
You may scent your article with your hands only and they must be kept in plain sight.
Use the same process for scenting that you use in practice; have a pattern (squeeze, turn 3 times, for example). The judge will generally wait for you to indicate that you are ready; don't take forever, it won't help!
When you hand the article to the judge (generally by putting in on the clipboard), the judge should ask which method you are using (turn and sit or flying send). After you indicate this, they will usually also ask "are you ready?"; the exercise begins when you say "Ready!". While waiting for the judge to put out the article, smile sweetly at your dog but don't move or talk.
The judge's command is "Send your dog".
For the flying send: you must give one command, turn and the dog must
go on his/her own. If s/he doesn't go, wait until the judge comments--it will be
an NQ if you have to give another command.
For the turn, sit and send: you give a command to turn (usually HEEL) and
then a command to fetch the correct article. Your dog must
stop after the turn and before you give the fetch command. If s/he doesn't
sit it will be scored but if s/he doesn't stop it is an NQ.
"Giving your dog the scent" is a good second command that this exercise is going to be articles. The regulations read that you may touch your dog's nose with your palm with the hand open. Most people don't think actually touching is a good idea (overwhelming). If you do this, it is done before turning.
Send your dog as soon as s/he sits; there is no judge's command. If your dog doesn't sit, but does stop (stand or down), send him/her anyway. It isn't an NQ (yet).
As long as your dog is working the pile, wait forever....let the judge give up first.
If your dog ignores the pile, goes to "go-out", is sniffing the ring-gates,..., call him/her in.
Don't give up on your dog; if s/he picks up one, comes back part way, goes back to the pile,..., just wait and see (unless your dog is stressing too badly). If you move AT ALL, you will get an NQ.
Your hands must be at your sides for the recall portion of this exercise.
Directed Retrieve
Practice all 3 turns by yourself until you can make them very smoothly; the key to making this exercise easy is a good turn.
Have your dog watch you during the turn; this prevents his/her fixating on a particular glove before you give the direction.
Give the direction along the right side of your dog's head (not over the top), using your arm from elbow to fingers.
Hold the direction and send the dog (the alternative is to give the direction simultaneously with the command; this is riskier).
If your dog doesn't move, wait a long count of five before giving another verbal command to take it (this is an NQ).
Your hands must be at your sides for the recall portion of this exercise.
Consider having your left arm start by your side for this exercise and at your waist for the articles; this might help distinguish them in your dog's mind.
For a small (or easily intimidated dog), starting with your hand at your waist to give the signal may look too much like a down command; try starting with your hand down at your side.
Moving Stand
You must maintain your pace as you give the command and (or) signal! Use BOTH!
You may give ONE command; either stand or stay, but not both.
You may give ONE signal; like your normal stand or normal stay command, but not both.
The easiest, surest signal to give and keep walking is with the left hand moving toward your dog.
Know your dog:
An abrupt signal in the face may cause some dogs to down (submission); if this is an issue, use a higher signal moving right to left.
If you bend down to get the signal in the face of a small dog, it is more visible but also more intimidating.
If you want to give the signal with your right hand; you must be especially careful to keep your pace up.
Measure your steps and know how many to take after giving the command; you must go "about 10 feet".
Since your dog is not coming to front it is legal to have your hand up (as if heeling). If you normally heel with your hand up, leave it there after giving the stand.
When calling your dog to heel, use both a verbal command and signal. Return your hand to your waist, not your side, if you normally heel with your hand up.
The signal should look exactly the same as if would if your dog was in front; do not make it too slowly.
The "around" finish is easier for the dog to do quickly and may keep the dog reasonably close to your right; but over time the dog tends to get wide behind you.
The "left" finish is more abrupt and the dog tends to go left from the beginning.
Directed Jumping
Use both a signal and command to send your dog.
If your dog does not go 10 feet past the jumps, it will be an NQ and may also be dangerous for the dog; if there is any question in your mind, tell the judge you are going to call the dog in and then do so.
If your dog is stopping on his/her own, and is 10 feet past the jumps, give your sit command if you are working on legs.
If your dog stands or downs instead of sits, but does not come forward, do not give a second sit command; it could cause an NQ (judge's discretion).
Use both a command and a signal for the jumps. Use a different command for the high and bar.
Other miscellaneous
Once you start teaching the automatic finish, you will get some when you don't want them. You can:
ignore it and wait for the dog to figure it out (eventually will get better)
work on front versus finish discrimination as an exercise (only finish from a stand; front from sits and stands)
On signals, you can either:
always teach stand, down, sit, come; since they will always appear in this order
make it a surprise by teaching the dog the signals might come in any order.
Watch the rest of your dog's work after an NQ. Most dogs look pretty good when the handler is no longer stressed; this is a good lesson in learning to control your own actions and mental attitude.
